Dan in action on steep terrain

Khumbu Icefall
19 April 2005    
Crampons bite into the ice on ever changing and often uneven terrain. Concentration and constant awareness are required to ensure as many of the ten crampon points on each foot penetrate the ice evenly and smoothly.

Today we headed into the Khumbu Icefall on an acclimatization / familiarization walk. Operating on 'gentleman's hours' the pleasant mid morning temperatures had us dressed rather lightly on yet another beautiful day. (So many good days in a row is almost a worry!). All are relieved to be taking this next small step on our journey to climb Mt Everest.

Walking in rhythm and conserving energy is vital in altitude climbing. Those who do not come to terms with the subtleties involved in this often burn themselves out long before summit day. Coordinating breathing with stepping is a key, as is 'the rest step'. Taking even a micro pause with each step helps to ensure secure footing and controlled breathing. The natural tendency on the steeper sections is to scurry up and then find ones self breathless. As Dan said, at this altitude you get short of breath long before you get lactic acid burn in your calves.

Our high point was the third crevasse spanned by a ladder which everyone crossed rather well. For the first time we had a view down on BC and to me the sprawl of tents looked to cover much the same area as usual.

The day was not without its dramas. Our climbing sirdar Ang Dorje witnessed Canadian Team Leader Ben Webster break his leg just below camp 1. While running in jumbly ice Mr. Webster caught his boot and fell in a twisting motion. Using Adventure Consultants radio communications the Canadian BC Staff were alerted and a rescue response initiated. Thanks to the efforts of many the rescue to BC was completed in an efficient manner.

Yesterday we heard that our trekking group were in Namche as planned and tonight they will be in Phukding. With only one day left they will no doubt be looking forward to the comforts of the big city!

In anticipation of a rest day before moving to camp 1 ....... Mike for the AC Team.