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Camp 1
22 April 2005
Today we completed our first complete ascent of the Khumbu Icefall from Base Camp to Camp 1, 6000m. As I write this dispatch afternoon snow calmly falls onto our tents; members lie cozy and ensconced in their sleeping bags.
Ascending the Khumbu Icefall is like a 'right of passage' when attempting Everest from Nepal. For most folks nervous anticipation proceeds the first ascent of this great cascade of snow and ice that falls between Everest's West Shoulder and Nuptse. This year the section of jumbled iceblocks (which come in a myriad of shapes) known as the 'popcorn' is longer than usual. All in all there were about 18 ladders to cross/ascend and they were relatively benign. The steepest serac involved an ascent of five ladders linked together; there are two such ladders side by side to avoid delays.
For the rest of the day we will hydrate, rest, eat simple mountain fare, listen to our personal music systems and perhaps peruse our books. Yes, camp life on the mountain; back to the basics.
Tomorrow we plan to have a relaxed start with the sun (compared to today's 3.30am awakening) and go for a gentle two hour acclimatization walk up the Western Cwm.
Until tomorrow, Mike for the AC Team.
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Previous Dispatches
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Testing day
21 April 2005
Our last rest day today. Packing, hydrating, and to add insult to injury, the girls from Brown University, came by to test us in the realm of remote speech monitoring systems that try to pick up hypox
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First snows
20 April 2005
Today has been a rest day. Shortly after breakfast a wall of cloud came up the valley, giving us a day of snow, our first for the trip. Gerrard, myself, and Pemba Sherpa made our first trip into the i
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Khumbu Icefall
19 April 2005
Crampons bite into the ice on ever changing and often uneven terrain. Concentration and constant awareness are required to ensure as many of the ten crampon points on each foot penetrate the ice evenl
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Matt McDonald crosses a ladder in the Upper Khumbu Icefall
