Camp 1

Out and about and at it
2 May 2005    
Today's 3.30am alarm revealed clear skies suitable for traveling to C1. As hard as early starts can be, folks (Luis, Mat McDonald, Mat Kitchin, Piers, Rob Hart and Mike) were relieved to be beginning this final phase of our acclimatization program. The now familiar routine of clipping fixed ropes, cramponing irregular ice surfaces and crossing/ascending ladders went smoothly.

Half way up the Khumbu Icefall we encountered the body of an American Climber who had fallen while descending the previous afternoon. It was clear that this climber was not clipped into the fixed ropes at the time of his fall; thus, a slip which should have been quickly arrested resulted in a fatal fall over a 10m drop. I am constantly amazed at how many sherpas and western climbers alike choose not to use the safety ropes. Crazy! Immediately after passing the body we encountered some climbers running down without being clipped in. What is up with that! (Young adult male immortality complex?). The body was due to be recovered back to BC today. Our condolences and sympathies are extended to family and friends.

At BC ever conscientious Phil was monitoring the radio from an early hour. Rachel our doctor has taken advantage of the absence of climbers to go for a walk today. Ang Tsering our Sirdar headed down valley to restock camp with supplies.

Today weather finally allowed our ever hard working team of climbing Sherpas to complete their first carry to the South Col / Camp 4 for this season. Meanwhile at C2 Paul, Rob Follows, Kat and Dan went for a gentle walk up to the base of the Lhotse Face.

It's time for my afternoon nap to the sound of falling snow.

Mike for the AC Team