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Stay North Col rest day Introduce the TEAM
27th April 2005 GPS-pos: °' | °' | Alt: 0 M
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Guides:
Bill Crouse (USA)
Mark Woodward (NZ) (a.k.a. Woody)
Dean Staples (NZ)
Dave McKinley (NZ)
Duncan Chessell (Aus)
Russell Brice (NZ)
North Col Guide:
Andrew Taylor - guide (NZ) (a.k.a. Frog)
Expeditioners:
Charlie Hobbs NZ
Chuck Dasey USA
Grania Willis Ireland
Antoine Boulanger France
Peggy Foster Canada
Akitomo Fujibayashi Japan
Shinichi Ishii Japan
Brett Merrell USA
Chieko Shimada Japan
Jezz Benton UK
Kevin Goldstein USA
Paul Hockey Australia
Mogens Jensen Denmark
Sissel Smaller Norway
Soren Nielsen Denmark
Richard Staite UK
David Tait UK
Team Monica self contained unit
Monica Weil-Kalozdi (USA)
Jean Pavillard Guide - Swiss/USA
Tom Torkelson Guide and cameraman - USA
Sherpa Team
This will have to come later as there are about 40 of them, I think!
Phase Two acclimatisation push the mountain sorts the weak from the strong
With expedition leading into the 5th week we have had a few people leave or descend to BC to recover from various illnesses.
Brett Merrell from LA departed ABC last scene heading for Thailand, the beach and some diving. He after 8 days of being unable to sleep at 6400m ABC had- had enough, a shame as he was seriously fit and strong but just unable to adapt to the extreme altitude. So so long Brett and there are a few of us who wish we were going to the beach in Thailand also!
The Japanese contingent have also broken into a splinter group and will be pursing their own acclimatisation goals with their dedicated Sherpas they have paid extra to have personal Sherpa guides on the hill in addition to the normal service. Due to their age over 50, they are better not to sleep higher than the north Col before summit push, this will be the bet course of action for them and so are on their own program.
The team Monica group of three, are moving about the mountain on their own program also we see them for food from time to time. Jean and Tom are guiding & filming Monica climbing the Seven Summits over a period of 2-3 years with Everest providing the greatest challenge so far.
Chuck Dasey & Charlie Hobbs have both suffered Pulmonary set backs pneumonia that shifted to HAPE for Chuck and straight HAPE for Charlie, both at ABC saw them both on oxygen for an evening and then a very slow walk down to BC over 2 days. They are expected to rest and slowly recover in BC over the next week. It will be tough for them to recover in such a dusty and high place but it has been done before and we wish them all the best in their recovery and eventual return to the mountain when they recover.
The familiar plod up to the North Col, complete with a bottle neck on the short ice cliff eventually saw the remaining team members ascend to the North Col camp yesterday (26th April). Most went very well but three members had packed way too much gear and went very slowly. Guide Bill Crouse tagged the Col camp and returned down the lines to pick up some extra weight good one Bill, with other guides assisting some clients with their packs. It should be noted that the Himex Sherpas had already fixed the tents, stoves, fuel, matts and sleeping bags; so the clients only had to take the light weight food, down suit (2kg) & spare gloves etc it was eventually discovered some people had packed books and all sorts of junk
.hmmmm a good learning experience for them!! Mind you 7000m is not easy in anyones language no matter how light your pack is. The important thing is that every time we go on the mountain people are learning valuable lessons and maintaining a very positive attitude through out the group.
Kevin Goldstein joined us at the North Col for 2 nights but elected to descend to ABC as he did not feel it would be beneficial for him to climb to C2 before the summit push. So we bade farewell to Kevin the morning we headed up to C2. Smart guy that Kevin he must have known what we were in for!
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Large Picture of Route North Col to Summit
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Lhakpa Ri 7045m the worldest easist 7000m peak
