Camp at 15,500 ft.!

In the Icefall at base of Peak Kazakhstan

Large Avalanche off Khan Tengri!

Back from Peak Kazakhstan!
August 12th, 2004    
Very unstable and deep snow conditions kept us from getting up Peak Kazakhstan. After setting up Camp 1 at around 15,500 ft. We tried breaking trail across a one kilometer long plateau. Unfortunatly we could make very little progress as in many places we would break through to our waist in very unconsolodated snow. So we decided to wait till things froze later that night.

While plugging steps below Karlytau earlier, Everett dropped into a cravasse to his armpits! The hole was 10 feet wide and huge. Fortunatly he got outta there quick. Over 4 feet of snow covered that cravass and he still punched through. That shows how really unconsoldated the snow was!

So up around midnight to check conditions. The same, the snow pack did not freeze at all, even with a cold clear night. So again we changed plans, at least we have the flexability to go with changinging conditions and capabilities!

Actually getting up here was a super fun mini trip. Camp One was excellent, a fantastic view of the Inylchek Glacier, RGO Peak, The Marble Wall, Gradzinskogo, 8 Alpenistok Peak and of course Khan Tengri! The Tien Shan offers so much great climbing, its virtually endless.

Plans are forming for next years Tien Shan Expedition to get in here and climb several of the Peaks along the glacier here. Great access, support and normally good conditions. So much fresh snow this year has kept everyone off schedule and success on Khan Tengri has been poor. That and with the accident on the South Side, overall its been a rough season. As they say, the mountains will always be here!

Both Everett and I really enjoyed the expedition this year. Had an opportunity to see and experience the Tien Shan. Mixed it up a bit and explored the more remote area upglacier and still have some time left for more! We may fly out and do some trekking in the Zaiilisky Altau Mountains near Almaty on the way back depending on when we get out now. So That?s about it from Kazakhstan. I will post a couple more reports as we fly out to Karakara and make our way to Almaty. What a magic place, Kazakhstan and it's mountains, culture and people!

Scott Woolums reporting from the Central Tien Shan Mountains!