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K2 & Broad Peak 2004
Image: Soaking up the views Soaking up the views
Image: Heading to the crows nest Heading to the crows nest

In position for summit attempt
2 Jul, 04 - 11:02    
We are in position for a summit attempt! This morning we woke up to high winds and blowing snow. There was so much condensation inside the tent it was snowing within as well.
The Austrians were camped feet away. They informed us that two of the three members were suffering from edema. They descended immediately. Alfred and Fred also informed us that they would also be descending for a few days rest. That left Rory and I alone on the mountain with feet of new snow to break trail through again. I believe that we would need to establish a fifth camp near 24,500 ft if we are going to have a shot at the top.
Rory and I absolutely busted some serious ass to make it to 24,310 ft by late afternoon. We went for it even though the weather was very poor. By late afternoon the winds had subsided and we have a posh camp chopped into a nest of seracs.
We plan on getting an early start if the weather conditions permit. This is the highest either Rory or I have slept. I am looking forward to ditching the heavy packs. God willing we will be the first to summit this year.

Previous Dispatches

Blue skies are here again    30 Jun, 04 - 05:33
Blue skies are here again! On Tuesday morning the 29th Rory, Fred, Alfred and I headed up Broad Peak again. Rory and I reached Camp 2 along with the British and Swiss commercial expeditions. Two Aus

Wide Open    28 Jun, 04 - 07:52
Well I had a slight delay in the summit bid due to two meters of new snow that fell over the past week! I have patiently waited for two sunny days for the avalanches to sweep the excess away. I am h

Paying Respects    26 Jun, 04 - 10:45
Today marked a turn in the weather. Fred, Rory and I took a stroll to the Gilkey memorial. There were plates, plaques, chiseled stone and crosses commemorating the climbers that have fallen on K2 an

Later dispatches - Previous dispatches