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The North Face Himalayan Cataract Project - Live Dispatches |
Summit to City
May 16th, 2005
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Kevin Thaw
The morning of May 12th was crisp & perfectly clear, scant condensation lurked only in the lowest valleys. All of Khumbu's summits stood calm & clear in that early light: Cho Oyu, Pumori, Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam,... Conrad Anker, Kris Erickson, myself - Kevin Thaw, Abby Watkins and John Griber stood atop 6440m Cholatse soaking in the awesome, spiky Himalaya skyline.
Cholatse's southeast ridge had relented very quickly, much faster than anticipated. Opting to climb at night for crisp, secure ice conditions we arrived onto the summit plateau just as the first light ignited surrounding peaks silhouettes. We'd left 18000ft Col camp shortly after sunset the prior evening, simul-climbing was our employed mode: Moving together with the rope and protection between us, much faster than belaying each rope length in the traditional style. We stopped en route four times to exchange equipment and leader. A brief rocky introduction then solid, not too steep ice for the journey's mainstay. Sixty five-ish degrees with a few steeper pitches to be deposited onto a football field plateau and a final summit ridge.
While basking and taking a short break at the base of the final snow ridge traverses to the summit, myself, Abby & John were joined by Conrad and Kris whom had begun the route at one pm and sped through the night. We continued all together traversing snow ridges above the west face, a steep 10m headwall was all the fortification the true summit offered: A thin snow fin, large and solid enough for all five of us.
Descent went smoothly via 'V' thread rappel anchors placed a couple of days prior by Conrad & Kris attempting the peak with Geoff, Pete & Michael. All of us were safely back at the tents on the col for afternoon tea.
The following morning required rapid exodus, from the col camp to base, packed and hike out the following morning. We had climbed on the last possible day and are now back in Kathmandu after a rapid exit; two long days en foot and a flight from Lukla to the city. We are awaiting a final meeting with Dr Ruit, the Tilgunga eye centre staff and local dignitaries.
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Filmmaking
May 18th, 2005
Michael Brown
The cable High Definition network Rush HD sent Serac Adventure Films crew David D'Angelo, John Griber and I along to to tell this story in
spectacular HD (High Definition).
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Jordan Campbell's Dispatch
12 May, 05 - 12:29
Cholatse Base Camp
May 12, 2005
Welcome Friends!
In only six days after arriving in Base Camp, our Sight to Summit team was able to secure a spectacular Camp II location on Cholatse's
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What Awaits Ahead
8 May, 05 - 10:06
Peter Athans 5-6
The trail from base camp wanders lazily upwards through an expansive valley.Our route is bordered by ridges that will shortly sound with the peaceful echoes of yakbells. Winter
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