Expedition Technology News - Human Edge Tech

NEWS

SHOP

2008 HumanEdgeTech Everest Special, final: Tech that saves lives

Due to its steel wire and lightweight shell, this mask originally invented for the Olympic skiing team in Finland has proved the best to prevent Khumbu cough on Everest.

This small Pelican case holds a trick to how to stay warm when waiting in line on Everest.

HET's foot/hand warming power solution is adapted to high altitude mountaineering.

Oxygen has to be cooled to below -118°C to change to a liquid, but takes much less space in this form. Don't be a guinea pig on Everest though - stick to good old POISK.

4 am, puja lit, wire mask on: ready to head up the Everest icefall.

09:03 pm CST Feb 05, 2008
(HumanEdgeTech.com) In the 2008 edition of Everest tech week we've covered gear that will allow you to stay in touch with other climbers, the media and the folks back home.

We close today with another kind of technology: the sort that could win you the summit, save you a toe - and perhaps even your life.

The odds

Among the latest 5000 climbers who have attempted to scale Everest, 'only' 40 died, making Everest a relatively safe mountain with a higher than 99% chance of making it back. That's the good news.

The bad news is that out of the 5000 attempts; only 38% made the summit and many, too many, came down with frostbites so severe they forced amputations.

New climbers figure that this is part of climbing high Himalaya. Skilled climbers will tell you different. Most such mountaineers - including repeat Everest summiteers - have their toes and fingers intact.

Severe frostbite is rare in mountaineering, and then suffered during truly challenging conditions, not from climbing a prepared route on supplementary oxygen.

Accepting risk is preparing for risk

We won't go into the basics of mountaineering; that is ample time to acclimatize, good hydration and to descend (or at least not keep climbing upwards) at any sign of altitude illness. You'll find plenty on that in the Survival Kit section at MountEverest.net.

Below instead three pieces of technology that could dramatically increase your chances of becoming an Everest summiteer - and coming down in one piece.

The major summit stopper: Khumbu cough

According to BCMD Luanne Freer; the Khumbu Cough is the biggest health problem on Everest's South Side. The cough is so debilitating, it often eliminates a serious summit attempt. Hard to treat; prevention is best strategy for this condition.

The cough is easily prevented by using a simple $60 wire mesh face mask. Various models can be found in cross-country ski stores; they work by warming and moisturizing the breathing air.

Due to its steel wire and lightweight shell, the model originally invented for the Olympic skiing team in Finland has proved the best. Previously hard to order; this mask is now carried by HET.
Mask at HET

The mask should be used during the trek to BC and up to high camps, especially during the early stages of the expedition.

Eliminating frostbite: Warming systems

Frostbites - especially on Everest North side - have increased in spite of wind and temperatures staying well within the normal range. The reason is a combination of jammed route, insufficient or failing oxygen and dehydration.

More about oxygen below, but here's a trick how to stay warm when waiting in line on Everest.

At $234 - the HET foot/hand warming system will keep your hands and feet toasty on the steps. Read more

Similar systems are also available in selected skiing stores; HET's power solution is however adapted to high altitude mountaineering.

The big unknown: Oxygen systems

We have written plenty on the shady business of supplementary oxygen on Everest - latest in the 2005 series "Oxygen on Everest - The highest death lab in the world."

Here goes an excerpt:

"New systems are continuously introduced without proper tests and fly by night commercial outfitters peddle the gear. It's an airtight business - there are no regulations on the mountain, mainstream media generally doesn't understand the subject, climbing magazines stay away and the customers are mostly new kids on the block. A sneaky part is also that oxygen failure closely resembles general altitude problems – and dead climbers' oxygen gear is rarely retrieved."

Comparing Himalaya high altitude climbing statistics, and also past and recent history on Everest, the sudden increase of frostbite and the mysterious deaths on Everest simply point to failing supplementary oxygen as a big culprit in accidents.

Unfortunately, trusting your expedition leader is not enough as oxygen comes included in your ticket. The less you use, the more they gain and some systems are cheaper than others, for a reason. Our only advice is to read up about supplementary oxygen - and to trust no one but yourself in this matter.

Closing

You're a fortunate generation. Everest has never been as accessible as it is today. Neither has information on its survival been so widely covered.

Everything you need to know down to the smallest detail is freely available on the web, not to mention right here at MountEverest.net where all advice comes from veteran Everest and high altitude climbers.

We want you to succeed, but also to enjoy the experience enough to continue to other amazing accomplishments in your life. The summit will feel like the main goal while you're there. Yet if you're lucky, it will only be the beginning of other summits ahead of you; with Everest a stepping stone to all that you can be.

Have a GREAT climb!

HumanEdgeTech programming and technology team contributed to the "Everest 2008 Tech Week."

HumanEdgeTech ultra-light expedition solutions have been featured in media such as Wired Magazine and New York Times. In 1995, HET's expedition software CONTACT received the most prestigious award in outdoor gear; "Editors' choice" by Backpacker magazine.

The team has extensive expedition experience from Everest, the North Pole, the South Pole, the Oceans and a commitment to “technology that works.”

HumanEdgeTech is a unique, no-nonsense virtual expedition tech warehouse for satellite communications and edge technology. Created by explorers for explorers, the store is user-friendly with no-hassle pricing, expedition-tested gear, expedition-ready hardware, fast delivery and payments. HumanEdgeTech.com accepts most international credit cards, and delivers worldwide within 72 hours.