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Broad Peak K2 double header: Interview with Contact 3 user Chad Kellogg
16:56 p.m. EST May 24, 2004
Before he leaves for Broad Peak on Thursday, ExplorersWeb caught up with Chad Kellogg to talk about his upcoming double header. First the West Face of Broad Peak and then the South Southeast Ridge of K2. Chad will be among the first to test out the new Contact 3.0 software.
ExWeb: What do you think about the new Contact 3.0? You'll be one of the first to use the software - what is your initial impression?
Chad: My initial impression of the new Contact 3.0 software can be summed up in two words, user friendly. I was able to post and edit dispatches with ease. I would like to delve into the more interesting features that the software provides like taking sound bytes and uploading images. Looking forward to using it more in the field.
No O2, no teammates, and definitely no hostage.
ExWeb: You've got two climbs without O's coming up; what are your views on using supplemental O's? Will you have emergency reserves?
Chad: My views on using O's are purely personal. I plan on taking a month to acclimate on Broad Peak before I try K2. If I can go no further without supplemental oxygen then I must train harder until I can achieve my summit goals. I do not plan on using O's, therefore I do not have emergency reserves.
ExWeb: On Broad you'll be taking the classic route, but on K2 you'll be going up the SSE spur; what is your attraction to this route? What are its unique challenges?
Chad: I talked with Dee Molenaar, Charlie Fowler, Steve Swenson and Kevin Cooney about route options. I decided the SSE spur was my route of choice due to several factors. The Abruzzi Ridge will have many climbers opting for a few small camps. The Abruzzi Ridge has loose rock, which means rock fall. Rock fall is one of my least favorite phenomena in the mountains. I love to climb on ridgelines. Ridges tend to shed avalanches and falling debris. The SSE spur offers the more technical climbing low on the route. The route seems like a good choice for a solo climber with snow and ice up to 70 degrees before the spur joins the Abruzzi Ridge between camps three and four. On the way down I have the option to descend either route.
ExWeb: You're one of the few Americans going to Pakistan this season; how does that make you feel, do you see a risk in traveling in the area as an American?
Chad: I perceive traveling to Pakistan as an American this summer as a high-risk endeavor. Climbing two 8,000-meter peaks solo seems about as risky as the hanging out in Islamabad as an American. I am hoping to catch that plane to Skardu as soon as possible. I suppose I will have to jump one hurdle at a time. I don't plan on making a good hostage at any point in my lifetime.
Chad Kellogg is a native of Washington State. He has climbed Ama Dablam, Aconcagua, Denali, and won the speed climb on Khan Tengri in 2003. Currently he is planning an expedition to Pakistan for summer 2004; Broad Peak and K2 double header. Longer-range goals include speed ascents on 8,000-meter peaks and alpine style first ascents.
Image of Chad on the summit of Ama Dablam courtesy of Chad Kellogg.
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