George Dunn - Expedition Leader
George began work as a guide on Mt. Rainier in 1975 while attending school at the University of Washington. He now holds the all-time record for ascents of Mt. Rainier, 479 and counting. After 30 years of guiding around the world, George remains an avid fan of mountaineering and enjoys sharing his passion with others. His special interests include the European Alps (the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc, Jungfrau), Alaska (Wrangell-St. Elias National Park) Canada (Mt. Logan) and Peru (Alpamayo and Machu Picchu). Domestically his interests include the North Cascades and Mt. Adams in Washington State. He runs comprehensive ice climbing seminars in Ouray, Colorado every winter and rock climbing programs in Joshua Tree, CA in the fall. He has participated on climbing expeditions the world over, including four expeditions to Everest (to the summit in 1991) and the North Face of Kanchenjunga the world's third highest peak in 1989.
Jeff Ward - Senior Guide
Jeff is a Senior Guide with Rainier Mountaineering, guiding for them on Mt. Rainier and Mt. McKinley, and has been guiding for IMG for the past five years. Jeff has lead several of our Alaskan Expeditions and is a lead guide on the Ouray Ice Climbing Seminars. He enjoys all types of climbing, from big walls to bouldering and frozen waterfalls to high altitude mountaineering. "The true beauty of climbing is in its diversity. There are so many different aspects to our sport. I cannot imagine another way of life that could be as rewarding as climbing." Jeff is a full Certified UIAGM and AMGA guide. That makes him a member of a very elite club. In addition, Jeff is also a Wilderness EMT. He's lead five expeditions to Mt. McKinley, two expeditions to Mt. Kilimanjaro, one expedition to the Ecuadorian Volcanoes (Cotopaxi and Chimborazo,) one expedition to the Cordillera Blanca, Peru (Alpamayo and Huandoy Norte,) two expeditions to the Wrangle St. Elias Range, AK, two expeditions to the Chugach Range, AK, and has over 60 ascents of Mt. Rainier and an ascent of Lurking Fear on El Capitan, Yosemite.
Mark didn't start climbing until 1987 at the ripe old age of 36. Since then, he's made up for lost time, climbing extensively in the Northwest (Mt. Rainier 13 times via 4 routes), climbing 6 of the 7 summits (won't do Everest - "it takes too long"), and climbing extensively in Mexico and Peru. Most recently, (August 2005) Mark spent 3 weeks climbing in the Alps.
To see pictures from some of Mark's other climbs, go to this site
Coming from Phoenix, Marilyn is probably the most angsty for snow and ice, as it has just stopped hitting 100 there. Marylin is an ER doctor in Phoenix (skills we intend to NOT use on this trip - ed.), and was a heart doctor by training. Her first love is wilderness medicine. This trip to Ama Dablam is the third part of Marylin's extravaganza turning 50 year party. She did a south to north rim hike of the grand canyon, and a September 28th climb in Red Rocks outside Las Vegas called Epinephrine - what a day! The Ama Dablam attempt is the grand finale. She's obviously been playing hard all year.
Carl Werts is a dentist from Pasadena California who has found a second calling in mountaineering. Over the last 8 years he has had the privilege to have climbed in the Pacific Northwest, Mexico, Bolivian Andes, the French Alps, New Zealand, and Denali. Annual trips include the waterfall ice in Ouray, and rock climbing in Eldorado Canyon (CO), Joshua Tree and the High Sierra.
Scott moved from the Midwest 10 years ago to Phoenix which immediately hooked him on climbing rather than ice fishing. Since then he's climbed throughout North + South America, as well as Antarctica. He climbs not only for the sport, but also to enjoy other people throughout the world on a basis more personal than the typical tourist. Other passions include karate, long distance biking, and completing all of the Grand Canyon hiking trails. Although, Arizona is a paradise for outdoor activities because of the sunshine, Scott does periodically (but just for a short time) miss fishing from a hut on the ice.
Pat Luke is a surgeon in Atlanta, Georgia and has been rock climbing for over 20 years since medical school. His first alpine climb was Mt. Rainier with George Dunn in 1999. He has also climbed in Alaska on 2 expeditions to Mt. Blackburn, Tetons, and 3 summits in Bolivia last summer. Closer to home he has rock climbed in North Carolina and Georgia. Pat also has his private pilot license so when time permits he loves to fly with his co-pilots: Lisa (girlfriend), Cocoa and Jake (Siberian Huskies).